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Paris Beer Festival: The Bars

I’m back in Paris! This time the reason for my visit is a beer festival—my first French one—and a run—also my first French one!

I didn’t try any of the newer—cheaper—train options available, but took the comfortably quick Eurostar again. After arrival, I whipped out my Navigo card—which surprisingly still had a lot of rides on it—to take the métropolitain to my hotel for the weekend, the ibis Paris la Villette, in the 19th arrondissement of Paris. After check-in, some coffee and banana bread at Kaffeebar 19, I was ready for an afternoon and evening of beer bars and breweries!

With some places only opening at four or five, it was a bit of a puzzle. However, in the end I had a schedule that enabled me to visit all the bars and breweries I picked out for this trip! First up was Paname Brewing Company, near my hotel.

After that I had to take the metro again to get to Le BaB OPERA. While they didn’t actually have a Paris Beer Festival event on Friday, they still had most beers from a Nuka Brewing tap takeover the day before.

There were no events at I.B.U Petites Écuries and BEER Paris either, but they had some nice beers on nevertheless.

At brewpub Les Cuves de Fauve they did have a Paris Beer Week event: a Sudden Death tap takeover and collab brew.

Last stop of the night was L’Atalante—back near my hotel again—where they had a Kauri Brewery and Wabi Brewing tap takeover.

I could easily have spent hours in each of those bars—which were all new to me—but it was nice to at least have visited them briefly!

Day 5 – Last Day, Last Hash…

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If you want to read about this trip from start to finish, instead of in reverse order, click here!

On the last day of my trip I had one more hash to go, with London H3 this time, and at noon already. Once again, in the west of London, meaning another day spending quite a bit of time on trains again…

No hash with at least some food in my stomach, so my first stop of the day was at BrewDog Waterloo , for a Croissant Brunch Burger and some pancakes. Being at an Outpost, I had to try some of their beers brewed on site… Good morning!

After that, and had no time to lose, and took the South Western Railway to Barnes Bridge, from where the P trail lead me to The Coach and Horses pub, where the London H3 trail would start. It was a great hash to do as the last one during my London visit, but even though I only walked this one—I didn’t want to too sweaty on the Eurostar—if was definitely one of the longer ones!

After trail, it was time to get closer to my final departure station, and to my favourite London BrewDog bar: BrewDog Camden. I originally had other dinner plans, but since I was running a bit late, I just had some Korean loaded fries in the bar. 

Getting to the Eurostar station, through security, and onto the train: it all went pretty smoothly, so that marks the end of this trip.…

Day 4 – Tunnels & Taprooms

No hashing on the fourth day, nor any BrewDog bars… Lots of taprooms on the schedule though, but first the Vagina Museum and the Brunel Museum!

Well, before that breakfast actually, and today exactly as planned: kejriwal—fried eggs on chilli cheese toast—at Dishoom

Then off to Bethnal Green, to the Vagina Museum. The tiny museum was quite interesting and educational—as are their toots—so I happily donated a bit to help them keep up the good work. 

Just a couple of railway arches down the track was coffee roastery La Tostadora. Here I learned that in Australia, my usual order of a double shot cortado with oat milk, is apparently called the “Magic”!

Another couple of railway arches further is Mother Kelly’s, where I bumped into Tasha, who I know from her Weird Beard Brew Co. days! The beer list was cracking, impossible to get through if I wanted to make it to another museum in time…

That next museum was the Brunel Museum. Being a big fan of shows like “The Architecture the Railways Built”, I simply had to go there! As it turned out, it was a different Brunel who built the Thames Tunnel! While the famous Isambard Kingdom Brunel was involved for a while, it’s was actually the project of his father, Marc Brunel. Fun fact: my train to get there went through the tunnel the museum was about. 

And just like that, I ended up on the Bermondsey Beer Mile again, passing a couple of places I knew and liked, but I was here for one the newer additions: Mash Paddle Brewery. Did I mention that every single place I went to today so far—apart from the Brunel Museum—was in a railway arch?

Just a couple of minutes’ walk took me to the new The Kernel Brewery Taproom. Yes, another new one, it’s their third location I visited… As usual, a lovely cheese board from Neal’s Yard helped tie me over until dinner. 

From there it was an underground and overground ride to Distortion Brewing Company, another brewery I had never tried before. Well, I certainly missed out! And guess what? Another railway arch!

I actually had some beers by Mondo Brewing Company before at BBP Dansaert, but didn’t visit their brewery and taproom yet. It was also the perfect opportunity to have dinner, served by the resident pan-asian joint Kato Kitchen. You can’t go wrong with fried chicken and spicy noodles, can you?

From there it was back to the north, to Red Hand. Not a brewery this time, ‘just’ a beer bar. It definitely had a Friday night out vibe, so not your typical craft beer bar. Great music though, and some nice beers!

The last stop of the night was the House of Hammerton, a bar operated by Hammerton Brewery. I made it to their taproom once, but only just before last call… So tonight was a great opportunity to try some more beers of them. 

Day 3 – West, East, and West London Again!

While I covered quite a distance yesterday with my excursion to Enfield, today’s milage wouldn’t be much less, due to my destinations being in the western and eastern extremities of London. 

I had my heart set on a Syrian breakfast at Maroush Bakehouse this morning, but for some reason it was closed. The queues at my backup spot were horrendous, and even Gregg’s was way too busy! In the end, a Mighty McMuffin had to do…

After that, I was off to the London Transport Museum Depot, which by sheer coincidence had their open days this week. I did the Pallet Racking Curator Tour, and lots of just looking around. They were even selling pieces of underground moquette seat covers!

Since I was that far west already, I went to Artisan Coffee for my cortado. On my way there I passed BrewDog Ealing, and thought it would be rude not to go there for a beer afterwards. The next beer stop, at BeerKat, actually was planned, although I didn’t really plan on having a DIPA and a TIPA already that early in the day…

I had plenty of time to recover on the Elizabeth line to Canary Wharf though, where I visited the London Museum Docklands. Pretty neat for a free museum!

While in the area, I had to revisit the refurbished BrewDog Canary Wharf, although I couldn’t remember what it looked like before… To prepare me for more drinking—and some running—I had this month’s special, the Chor-ree-tho burger. 

By then it was already time to get ready for my run with the West London Hash. The start was in Richmond: true to their name, quite far west. Definitely the darkest run of the week, I hardly ever switched off my head torch! 

After the run and circle, I joined some hasher friends in the Richmond Tap Tavern, for a last couple of beers. 

Day 2 – Muffins, Money, and More…

My second day in London started with a full English Muffin Man breakfast, to prepare me for a day full of activities, ranging from ‘House’ visits, to meeting more Hash House Harriers…

In a place called Muffin Man, I had to have a muffin of course, so I ordered a toasted buttered English muffin in addition to the already more than filling breakfast…

The house I visited, was Leighton House, the former home and studio of the leading Victorian artist, Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830-1896), on the edge of Holland Park. I hadn’t heard of him before this trip, but it must have been quite a character, and he left us a beautiful house!

Back in the centre, I visited the Bank of England Museum. A nice little exhibition, but most importantly: I got to touch and lift a real gold bar!

My selected coffee bar of the day was Rosslyn Coffee. Standing place only, baking in the sun, but what a location!

From there it was just a short walk to Pelt Trader, where I enjoyed a couple of beers, and their Sussex Hot pizza. By the time I finished it, I realised I was actually quite far ahead on schedule, which meant the next bar I planned to go to wasn’t open yet…

Luckily The Rake—the bar I finally went to in June—was only a London Bridge away, so I decided to cross the Thames and spend some time there. As expected, they once again had a great selection of beers!

After that The Bolter was open, so I had a last couple of beers there, before heading back to the hotel to change into my running kilt. 

The Piccadilly line was acting up a bit today, so I had to leave a little bit earlier to make it to Enfield in time to run with the Enfield Hash. By the time I arrived at The Cricketers pub, they had already almost finished chalk talk, so I gave my bag to Mick Mac—one of the Brussels hashers, but an Enfield native—and we took off! 

After returning in the pub, I managed to wolf down a steak and ale pie before circle started, so I was ready for a last beer stop before going back to the hotel. 

That last stop was in BrewDog Soho, a bar I hadn’t been in six years! I arrived just fifteen minutes before last call, so after two beers, I was on my way to a shower and my bed…