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Tag: Caledonian Sleeper

Highlands Detour

When I opened the window blinds after waking up, I had a first glimpse of the rainy Highlands. So yes indeed, I travelled quite a bit further north than end destination Glasgow, and I would be spending my Saturday in Fort William and Glenfinnan. 

Of all the routes possible with Caledonian Sleeper London, the one to Fort William was the only one I hadn’t done yet. And I can now attest it is the best one: it is the one with the latest arrival, so plenty of time for breakfast, and the views the last couple of hours are incredible!  Those views are best enjoyed while having the Scottish cooked breakfast: in the Club Car. 

After arriving a couple of minutes early, The Jacobite steam train was waiting at the other platform, which was a nice bonus. 

After storing my bag for the last time this trip in another convenient Stasher, I first headed to The Wildcat, for a nice Dear Green coffee. 

While had some time to kill before my next train, I visited the West Highland Museum.

 I had no idea the area was so important for the training of commandos during WW II!!

After a quick visit to the Caledonian Sleeper Guest Lounge to recharge, I hopped on the ScotRail train to Glenfinnan. 

So I had a perfect plan: hike up to a spot with a good view on the Glenfinnan Viaduct, get there to see The Jacobite steam train pass over it, to catch it on photo and video. I made it there in time, set up my camera to record a loop, and then… nothing! 

Apparently the afternoon service stopped just two weeks before! I did get some nice photos of the viaduct though, but quite wet… 

I then hiked back downhill and visited the Glenfinnan Monument & Visitor Centre , where I also picked up a NTS Member Passport. Woohoo, more stamp collecting!

The only train still going back to Fort William, was also the last train back to Glasgow, so instead I had booked a Peter’s Taxi to take me back to Fort William. That way I had some time for some beers at the Black Isle Bar, and a Venison Salami pizza, but even more important: retrieving my bag! 

Then there was just one more train to take: the West Highland Line to Glasgow Queen Street. 

After two very short nights, I couldn’t wait to check-in my hotel—Premier Inn Glasgow City Centre St Enoch Square—have a shower, and go to bed… Because tomorrow will start way too early for a Sunday! 

First Stop: London

A trip to Scotland inevitably—for me at least—includes a train change in London. This time I really made the most of it, and included a visit to a museum, a brewery taproom, and an Indian dinner. 

Of course it was a national strike in Belgium, disrupting public transport quite a bit. Luckily the lines I needed to get to Brussels Midi station were still running, albeit less frequent. 

When I arrived—well ahead of time—the Eurostar terminal looked slightly different than last time… I soon found out what changed: whereas the British border control had been an automated passport scan for a quite a while already, the Belgian side now has similar gates as well. No human interaction at all required anymore! 

After boarding, I quickly found my comfortable solo seat, number 61. Not the one The Man in Seat 61 usually books, since his is in Premier class, while I was ‘just’ travelling in Plus. Note to self: check which power socket a booked seat has, because a UK plug and a USB-C cable aren’t much use when the seat only has a EU socket and USB-A outlet…

Plus class includes a light lunch, and today it was grilled courgette and marinated fennel salad bowl, Sicilian gemelli pasta with tomato, capers and olives, and basil ricotta. 

After arriving perfectly on time, I first headed to a Stasher location near Euston station, to store my bag for the day. After a rather short night, I was desperate for a coffee, so I headed to Origin Coffee Shoreditch for my first one. 

I picked that area to be already near the Museum of the Home, a free museum I hadn’t been to yet. It turned out to be quite nice! Although you start to feel old when the more recent interiors seem very familiar…

Time for another coffee at Gram’n Degrees, mainly to kill time until the Great Beyond Brewing Co brewery taproom opened. They were still in full Oktoberfest mode, but luckily had some non-lagers—brewed in house, of course—as well!

Since my stomach was still on Belgian time anyway, I decided to beat the Friday night dinner crowd, and head to Punjab restaurant early. I had one of their specialties, the Acharri Murgha, with some garlic naan and a mango lassi of course. Delicious!

After picking up my bag, I made my traditional stop at Euston Tap, for a last pre-train beer. Or three… 

The Caledonian Sleeper guest lounge wasn’t too full when I arrived, and I had my room key, some shortbread and Irn-Bru in no time. 

After boarding, I headed to the Club Car to hand in my breakfast card, and secured my stool at the window bar. While I was enjoying a Black Isle beer, the Caledonian Sleeper London Euston – Fort William departed perfectly on time. Just 925 km in 12h45 to go…

Back in Inverness

After a full Scottish breakfast—but is it still Scottish when it doesn’t include haggis?—we arrived about ten minutes early in Inverness. My Scottish adventure was about to start!

My first port of call then was the Caledonian Sleeper lounge, just across from the station. It was definitely smaller than the one in London, but it fulfilled its purpose, and I had a moment of relaxation with a nice cuppa and a cookie.

I then dropped off my bags at Travelodge Inverness City Centre, and headed to PERK Coffee + Doughnuts for coffee and—you guessed it—a doughnut. 

Since the last time I was in Inverness I was quite hungover, I decided to once again take Stagecoach 27 to revisit Culloden Battlefield. 

From there I took the same bus back in the direction of the Black Isle Brewery. From the nearest bus stop it was still a 25 minute walk, but who cares when you’re walking in the Highlands? The brewery didn’t actually have a taproom—just some cans in a fridge. They did however spontaneously offer to give me a tour of the brewery, which of course made me very happy!

The way back from the brewery to town was even less convenient—Scottish public transport truly works in mysterious ways—so I ordered a taxi straight to the Black Isle Bar. There I actually managed to find a couple of beers not available in the brewery, so happy me!

After checking in to my hotel, and briefly closing my eyes, I popped by at the Victorian Market, where everything seems to close quite early… Moonshine was still open though, so I had a can of beer there. 

Since it was still a bit early to go for dinner, I also made a stop at Highlander. While most of their beers are pretty standard, they do seem to have a special place in their heart—and fridges—for a local brewery: Dog Falls. 

From there it was onto Mangrove, for some proper Indian food! I had the tandoori mix, chilli korma chicken, and some garlic nan. 

Then I ventured into the lion’s den: MacGregor’s, historically archenemies of the MacLarens… They didn’t seem to recognise my tartan though, and served me beers with a smile on their face. Bullet dodged! 

The last stop of the night was The Malt Room. They initially recommended me a flight, but as appealing as that sounded, it simply would have been too much… I settled for one dram of Raasay, and then went to bed, to catch up on some sleep…

Simmer Dim Trip

Finally! Another ‘big trip’! Not unexpectedly it’s to Scotland again, but with a very specific goal: experience the shortest night of the year—Simmer Dim—on Shetland. As usual, the first day is all about getting to Scotland: 1287 km in under 21 hours, including over 7 hours in London…

Faithfully filling out all those questionnaires from Eurostar meant I had gathered enough points to upgrade to Eurostar Plus. There’s no lounge access included in that class, but in Brussels that’s usually not really needed anyway. For me the most important advantage of class upgrades are the solo seats. On trains to London however, Plus actually includes a light meal and drinks as well! On the menu today: roast beef bowl with horseradish and lovage potato salad, green beans and courgettes, apricot Bakewell. I also got to try the Two Tribes beer Nomad, brewed exclusively for Eurostar.

After arrival—just seven minutes late—I first headed to Hoppers for the second part of my lunch. Not that I didn’t enjoy the food on the train, but it was just a light meal, and definitely not enough for what was about to come… Also, Hoppers had been on my to-do list ever since I saw the founder as a guest chef on the Sorted YouTube channel. So I had an egg hopper, the Lankan chicken kari, tomato chutney, pol sambol, and seeni sambol, all of that with a Toddy Ale by SALT. 

I wouldn’t stray too far from the train stations today, but still, taking my big wheelie bag—with a kilt roll and a smaller backpack strapped to it—would be quite annoying. So it was time to store my bag at what turned out to be the cutest Nannybag location I ever used. The lady running the shop calling me ‘dear’ all the time reinforced this sentiment even further…

After that I had some time to relax a bit and have the first decent coffee in days, at Store St Espresso. 

From there it was just a five minute walk to The Queen’s Head. I’ve been to this bar a couple of times—probably already my very first time in London—but the beer menu never disappoints! To soak up a bit of the beer before my last stop, I finished off with a Mr. Barrick’s pork pie. 

Then it was time to retrieve my bag while the shop was still open—even though the nice lady gave me clear instructions on what to do if it was closed—and head to my traditional pre-sleeper stop: the Euston Tap! It was sweltering inside, so after my first half, I ordered a pint to take outside. 

I didn’t stay too long, since I hadn’t tested the new Caledonian Sleeper lounge yet. It’s definitely nice they have a space of their own now: you already get your room key card—pre-activated, so no messing about with double-tapping—and an announcement when it’s time to board. And of course all the shortbread and Irn-Bru—and coffee and tea—you can stomach! The lounge was quite busy, but I still found a seat. 

When I was finally on board, I quickly dropped my bag in my room, filled out the breakfast card, and headed to the Club Car, for my traditional whisky and Scottish cheese plate. After my second dram, I decided it was time to go to bed, and spend most of the 914 km to Inverness sleeping. After all, breakfast will be served at 7:15…

So for now, time to take off my trousers and stash them away for the next two weeks, and get some sleep!


Bonus! A little video of my Caledonian Sleeper experience!

FyneFest Trip – Day 1

Out of Kilter in Glasgow!

For breakfast on the Caledonian Sleeper I had the full Scottish, as usual. I’m happy to report it’s being served on real crockery again! Mere minutes after I finished my tea, my train arrived in Glasgow Central fifteen minutes early.

To change things up a bit and try something new, I booked a room in the Z Hotel Glasgow this time. It was my first port of call after arrival, not to check in—it was still a bit early for that—but to drop off my baggage.

Today I started with coffee quite a bit earlier than yesterday: at 7.45 I was already sipping my first cortado and killing some time at Gordon St Coffee.

Something I simply had to do after seeing and enjoying the show “Inside Central Station”, was a Glasgow Central Station Tour, so I was booked for the one at 10:00. For a moment I thought I had to do the tour without any celebrities present, but eventually Paul Lyons did make a few appearances!

After an early lunch at Riverhill Coffee Bar, I could then already check in at my hotel, giving me some time to recharge before starting a filled afternoon.

Just before my trip, I renewed my membership of the National Trust for Scotland, and the first of their properties I visited this trip, was the Tenement House.

Because I was well ahead on my schedule, I decided to already visit BrewDog Glasgow Kelvingrove, my favourite Scottish BrewDog bar. Then I reverted back to my planning, to have an Indian style fully vegan burger—the Roberto Bhaji-O—and some beers at BrewDog Merchant City.

By then it was time to change into my hash kilt, and head to The Rose Reilly, to hash with Glasgow H3, where I’m still known as Out of Kilter…