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Tag: Austria

A Day of Deutsche Bahn…

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If you want to read about this trip from start to finish, instead of in reverse order, click here!

Time to go home! Just two high-speed ICE trains, with an easy, 51 minute transfer in Frankfurt am Main. Well, that was the plan, but when travelling with Deutsche Bahn, things hardly ever go as planned…

Since it would be quite a challenge to pack my bag—with more beer, pálinka, clothes, and goodies than I originally left Brussels with—I had my breakfast in the hotel. I even got around to trying the waffle iron this time! Once everything was squeezed in my bag, I checked out for the last time in a while, and went across the street to the station.

In Wien Hbf my ICE to Frankfurt (Main) Hbf was already waiting for at the platform twenty minutes in advance. Well, at least half of it was, so people with seats in the missing carriages were slightly panicking… The other half was attached a bit later, and the then complete train left on time, and stayed on time until we arrived at the first station in Germany… There, due to some ‘technical issues’, we stayed at the station way langer than scheduled… For a while, it still seemed feasible to catch my connection, but the closer we got, the more unlikely it became. Luckily it wasn’t my first time travelling with DB, so I had made sure not to be dependent on catching the last train to Brussels in Frankfurt.

We arrived in Frankfurt am Main Hbf about ten minutes after my scheduled connection left. Fine, I already made a seat reservation on the next—and last—train to Brussels, about an hour and a half later. So I left the station to get something to eat and kill the time. My first choice was a trendy hamburger restaurant, but there was a queue outside, so I went to a fast-food place instead. As it turned out, that queue probably saved my return journey…

Back in Frankfurt am Main Hbf, I went to the platform where my train would leave from. Just after I got comfortable for the wait, I noticed something on the departure board: my train would skip Frankfurt am Main Hbf, and depart from Frankfurt am Main Flughafen Fernbf instead! So I jumped on the first train heading in that direction, which dropped me off at the regional train station at the other side of the airport, and made my way over a dozen escalators and through long corridors to the right platform, which I got to in time.

And just when you think it’s over: another train in front of us broke down, so our ICE had to make a detour. Eventually, at ten minutes after midnight, I alighted in Brussels Midi station… Next time I’ll just take the ÖBB NightJet again!

Babel & Backhuhn

Last full day of this trip, still in wonderful Wien! It’s a Tuesday, so the museums are all open again, including the Wien Museum and Kunsthistorisches Museum

Lots of walking around ahead, so a small breakfast won’t do today. The Morgenmuffel at Café Goldegg was exactly what I needed: basically an English breakfast in a baguette.  And a basket of chips…

The Wien Museum was being renovated last time I visited, but today I finally got a proper introduction to Vienna’s history!

Kaffeefabrik, on the other hand, was indeed open last time I was in the city, but definitely worth a revisit. 

Caffeinated again, I went to check out where all those Bruegel paintings ended up: in the Kunsthistorisches Museum apparently. Best known of his paintings there probably is the Tower of Babel, but I recognised several others. The Roman collection was quite impressive as well!

By this time, breakfast was largely digested, so I headed to the Bitzinger Würstelstand for a Käsekrainer sausage. Well, I was unpleasantly surprised by a very long queue—there was none when I passed it the day before—so I went to Würstelstand Südtirolerplatz near my hotel for that cheesy sausage instead. 

In the evening there was one more bar completely new to me to discover: Die Freunderlwirtschaft. Not that many (craft) beers on draught, but there was a surprisingly diverse selection in the fridge. 

achtundzwanzig was the perfect place to meet up with a friend again, and enjoy some Brew Age beers. 

The last stop tonight was Gastwirtschaft Stopfer, for the Ausgelöstes Backhuhn im Körberl. A great ending to my last night in Vienna!

Wieder in Wien

To break up the return trip a bit—and because it’s a great city—I decided to have a two day stop in Vienna. I’ll revisit familiar places, visit some new ones, and of course enjoy the architecture, food, and beer!

Upon arrival of my sleeper train in Wien Hbf, I could already see my hotel from the platform. How’s that for nearby? When I presented myself at the reception desk of the ibis Wien Hauptbahnhof—fully expecting to just leave my bag there—I was informed my room was already available. Keep in mind, it was only 8:30 in the morning! Since I already had a shower—albeit cold—on the train, and I had tickets for something starting at 10:00, I just hung my MacLaren kilt to air out a bit, and headed out again. 

Since breakfast isn’t provided on the Dacia Express, a quick stop at 15 Süße Minuten was in order, for a small breakfast of fresh rolls, butter, and chives. Deliciously simple, and simply delicious!

So the thing I had timed tickets for, was the morning exercise at the Spanische Hofreitschule. Let’s say it was not quite what I expected: it really was just little exercises of a couple of horses and their riders, two thirty minute sessions of that, and just a tiny bit of explanation just before and after each session. Not a rehearsal for the afternoon performance or anything like that. And no photos of the actual training allowed! I wasn’t surprised that halfway the second session, people already started walking out…

After lunch at Leberkas-Pepi, and a coffee at NÜD, it was time for the apparently very popular Haus der Musik. Is was more experience than museum, but it was a bit too busy for me to experience much…

After some shopping at the Original Salzburger Trachtenoutlet—you’ll have to wait until next year’s Oktoberfest to see what I bought—a coffee, at Koun Coffee this time.

I then finally went back to the hotel for a shower—hot this time—and a change, before heading out for my first beers. Unfortunately Hanf & Hopfen was closed this week, so instead I had yet another coffee a little down the street, at Coffee Junkie

This means my first beers of the day were at Mel’s Craft Beers, where I spent quite a long and pleasant time. 

Before imbibing more, with just a small breakfast and a rather small lunch in me, I had to really eat something a bit more substantial. The Waldviertler Knödelgröst´l at Waldviertlerhof was exactly what I needed!

A quick stop at Wombat’s bar—which in despite of serving some craft beer, very decidedly had a hostel vibe—and of course I finished the night at Ammutsøn, where I celebrated Zwanze Day in 2022

Wien, Bayern & Berlin Reise – 4

Oktoberfest, the OG

After a couple of days in Wien, it was time to move on to Bamberg, but with a very important stop along the way… It’s the end of September, so it isn’t hard to guess where I went: Oktoberfest in München!

I put on my brand new Lederhose—I shrunk out of the pair I bought a couple of years ago—and headed to Wien Hbf for my four hour ÖBB Regiojet trip to München. It was a bit too early to have breakfast before boarding—apart from a croissant in the first class lounge—so I had my last Austrian breakfast on the train.

After arriving in München and storing my bag for the day, I first went for lunch, to line my stomach for what was to come. Although I didn’t really have time to play tourist today, there was one place I had sung about many times before—🎶In München steht ein Hofbräuhaus🎶—so I simply had to visit it! Of course I already had a first Maß—of Dunkles—with my Obazda there.

A quick coffee at Man versus Machine Coffee Roasters, and I was ready for the main event.

As I’m quite a traditionalist—even if it comes to traditions I’m not really a part of—I went straight for the Oide Wiesn, and its Festzelt Tradition. They had a Blaskapelle playing there, and even served the beer—Augustiner Edelstoff—in stoneware Keferloher, instead of glass.

Since I would be on the train for two hours just around dinner time, I decided to have an early dinner—Knuspriger Spanferkelbraten mit Kartoffelknödel und Speckkrautsalat—at the Augustiner-Keller, right next to the station.

On a weekday, a lot of places in Bamberg seem to close quite early, so even before checking into my Ibis Bamberg hotel, I stopped at Brauerei Spezial for a Märzen.

To conclude the day, I went to Stillbruch, one of the rare interesting bars still open late.

Wien, Bayern & Berlin Reise – 3

A Castle and a Curtain Call

Today I went full-on tourist again! After breakfast, and a first wake-up coffee at Coffee Junkie, I went to Schloss Schönbrunn, on the western outskirts of Vienna. Quite popular and busy, but worth it nevertheless. Unfortunately it was not allowed to take photos from the inside…

For lunch I went back to the centre, to Bier & Bierli, for some Gröstl, a Tiroler specialty.

Since I was a bit ahead of schedule, I went for another coffee, at Kaffeefabrik this time, and some Kaiserschmarrn at Café Museum. It didn’t quite live up to my childhood memories, but at least I could cross it off my list…

By then it was almost time for a guided tour—by an actual person this time—of the Wiener Staatsoper. I just missed out on a performance of Die Zauberflöte, so I’ll have to come back for that another time.

By then it was beer o’ clock, so I went to brewpub 1516 Brewing Company to get me started.

After that I really started to deviate from my plans, since I somehow missed my next stop wasn’t open on Mondays, and the one after that only served beers I already had before. So earlier than expected, I ended up at Statt-Beisl im WUK. The last planned beer stop of the evening was achtundzwanzig, basically the taproom of Brew Age.

Although the Kaiserschmarrn kept me filled up for quite a while, I really needed some sustenance after that last barleywine… So I indulged in another Viennese staple: Wurst. I looked up where I could get a decent one nearby, and ended up at the Wiener Würstelstand. It definitely did the trick…

Getting up early for my train to Munich the next day, so after that, I called it a night.