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More Mackintosh

Today I managed to check off the last of the publicly accessible buildings by Charles Rennie Mackintosh: the Mackintosh at the Willows tearoom, and the Queen’s Cross Church. It was also my last Scottish hash this week, actually IN Edinburgh this time. 

Today’s breakfast place choice was Cranberry’s, because I was intrigued by their Nacho Breakfast. Turns out it was mainly a Scottish cooked breakfast, with tattie scones fried as nachos, and the addition of salsa and guacamole. Still nice though!

At Mackintosh at the Willow—nowadays in the care of the NTS—I had booked a tour at 11:00. That meant I got to see parts of the building I wasn’t allowed to go when I was there years ago for an afternoon tea. And the exhibit must be new anyway. 

I had been to the Riverside Museum a couple of times already, but they had a new addition I really wanted to see: Glasgow Subway car 128. Too bad you couldn’t go inside, but a nostalgic reunion nevertheless. 

The Mackintosh Queen’s Cross Church is the only church in the world designed by the great Scottish architect, designer and artist, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and the last of his (publicly accessible) buildings I hadn’t been to yet. Until today! 

After a coffee at Laboratorio Espresso, I had to get ready for the last hash of the trip, in Edinburgh. 

However, I went a bit earlier than necessary, so I could grab a beer and a bite at BrewDog DogHouse, one of the few BrewDog bars still left, and the first one I visit after the takeover of the brand by Tilray. They still honour the stamp rewards, so those chicken tenders with Buffalo sauce and blue cheese dip, and tater tots, were on the house. 

Run 2154 of The New Town H3 started and ended in Leslie’s Bar just a short bus ride away. For the first time—for me—the run stayed close to the centre, and passed quite a few sights. A lovely run to finish with! 

Science & Myths in Falkirk

After a day in Glasgow, it was time to head out again in undiscovered country! Today, that was Falkirk. Wonders of engineering and artful evocations of ancient myths awaited me: the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies. 

So I planned to have breakfast at Piece: the description of the Chicken Olé sandwich sounded delicious—and it turned out to be so—but somehow I missed the fact that it was takeaway only… Luckily they had a tiny terrace, and it had stopped raining, but it was the first time in years I had a coffee from a disposable cup. 

I actually didn’t have time to search for a waste-free alternative this time, because I didn’t want to miss my planned train to Falkirk High. That station was nowhere near my destinations for today, and for this area, I had to use a bus operator I hadn’t used yet: Midland Bluebird. I would be using them all day, so I got a day ticket in their app. 

The bus took me to the Falkirk Wheel, where I had booked a 50 minute boat ride, including two turns on The Wheel. I must say, it’s quite a feat of engineering! 

Back in Falkirk centre, I had a Fiery Mango Chicken Sourdough Melt at Behind the Wall and a pit, before hopping on a bus again to my next destination. 

I could actually see The Kelpies already when I was taken up in the Falkirk Wheel, but to get there, it was still a ten minute walk from the nearest bus stop. That walk started all nice and sunny,  but by the time I arrived, it was pouring down. Luckily there was a bridge providing cover to wait out the worst. So The Kelpies are a pair of monumental—really huge, I did not expect that—steel horse-heads by sculptor Andy Scott, representing both mythical, shape-shifting water horses, and the heavy horses once so important for the Scottish industry and economy.

Back in Glasgow, I remedied a huge oversight: until today, I had never seen the statue of Charles Rennie Mackintosh! And just a couple of minutes from there was The Ben Nevis, where I apparently hadn’t been for ten years already! I had a couple of drams to make up for it. 

At The Islay Inn it was Tattie Scone Taco Tuesday. Yes, you read that right, they use potato based tacos, and that works remarkably well! But the real stars were the fillings: sticky chilli and irn bru chicken with sweet drop peppers and ranch, Stornoway black pudding, Ramsey’s haggis, caramelised onion and pepper sauce, and the—quite spicy—special was fajita chicken, spiced veg, chipotle mayo and chili. 

The plan was to spend the rest of the evening in the Grunting Growler, working my way through the tap list and fridges, but it being primarily a beer shop, last call was already as early as nine thirty. 

An excellent excuse to pay a visit to the Scotia Bar, supposedly the oldest bar in Glasgow. I originally planned to go there on my first night, because it was conveniently close to my hotel anyway, but I was just too exhausted. Shit beers on keg, but some beauties on cask. And an awesome atmosphere, definitely worth the visit. 

Glasgow Day!

Day four of my trip, and only now I got to spend the whole day in Glasgow! A day well spent, with lots of history, art, and of course some beer and running. 

Since I enjoyed their breakfast burrito so much last time, I had it again at their new location; The Spitfire Cafe.

Then I had to rush to Glasgow Central to catch a train to Nitshill, for a Behind The Scenes Tour of GMRC I booked at the Glasgow Museums Resource Centre. It was a seriously impressive collection, and it was nice to get a glimpse of the workshops as well! 

After returning to the centre and finding two of my regular coffee places shut, I had my coffee at The Devil’s Roast. Stylish place, but maybe too stylish for me. 

At the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art I found remarkably little about St Mungo, but some impressive, moving pieces of art about atrocities committed in the name of religion instead. 

The atmosphere at Rest was definitely more my style, and the coffee really nice. And right across the street was beer shop The Pursuit of Hoppyness, with even a beer on draught. They also had beers by No Limits Brewing, a local brewery I thought about visiting, but their taproom isn’t open during my stay. 

After those beers it was time to change and head to Jordanhill for Glasgow H3 Run 2239. After a rather dark run–it’s October after all—we had Circle at The Three Craws, where I also had a steak & cheddar pie. 

Two more trains to get home, and that was the end of my first full Glasgow day this trip! 

Scottish Borders

So yes, somehow I ended up running through the Scottish Borders today. The Edinburgh H3 tends to hash a bit outside of the city, but this was extreme, even for them. Worth it though! After the run, I was finally able to enjoy a bit of Glasgow. 

To get to an 11:00 run in the Scottish Borders, I had to leave quite early, and get a breakfast to go at the Greggs in Glasgow Queen Street, which I then enjoyed on my train to  Edinburgh Haymarket. 

There I was picked up by an Edinburgh hasher, and a 1h15 ride later, we arrived in Coldingham well in time for the start of Edinburgh H3 Run 2331. We caught a lucky break in the rain, and enjoyed many sunny sea views, and a few beers afterwards. Only minimal gravity testing…

At EH3 they traditionally have a pub lunch after the run. So shortly after circle, I found myself at The New Inn, eating the sizzling pork with wholegrain mustard, cider sauce, chips, and veg, with a pint.

After another long car ride, followed by the train back to Glasgow, and a short subway ride—while they were still going, the Sunday service is rather short—I had a shower and a change in my hotel before 

dinner at Yianni’s. The chicken gyro pita I had there was definitely better than anything I ever had in the Rue des Bouchers!

Stomach lined, it was time to try all the beers at Shilling Brewing Co. Well, not actually all of them, but there were quite a few I wanted to try. 

To end the night with a Glasgow classic, I had a dram—or two—at The Pot Still. 

Highlands Detour

When I opened the window blinds after waking up, I had a first glimpse of the rainy Highlands. So yes indeed, I travelled quite a bit further north than end destination Glasgow, and I would be spending my Saturday in Fort William and Glenfinnan. 

Of all the routes possible with Caledonian Sleeper London, the one to Fort William was the only one I hadn’t done yet. And I can now attest it is the best one: it is the one with the latest arrival, so plenty of time for breakfast, and the views the last couple of hours are incredible!  Those views are best enjoyed while having the Scottish cooked breakfast: in the Club Car. 

After arriving a couple of minutes early, The Jacobite steam train was waiting at the other platform, which was a nice bonus. 

After storing my bag for the last time this trip in another convenient Stasher, I first headed to The Wildcat, for a nice Dear Green coffee. 

While had some time to kill before my next train, I visited the West Highland Museum.

 I had no idea the area was so important for the training of commandos during WW II!!

After a quick visit to the Caledonian Sleeper Guest Lounge to recharge, I hopped on the ScotRail train to Glenfinnan. 

So I had a perfect plan: hike up to a spot with a good view on the Glenfinnan Viaduct, get there to see The Jacobite steam train pass over it, to catch it on photo and video. I made it there in time, set up my camera to record a loop, and then… nothing! 

Apparently the afternoon service stopped just two weeks before! I did get some nice photos of the viaduct though, but quite wet… 

I then hiked back downhill and visited the Glenfinnan Monument & Visitor Centre , where I also picked up a NTS Member Passport. Woohoo, more stamp collecting!

The only train still going back to Fort William, was also the last train back to Glasgow, so instead I had booked a Peter’s Taxi to take me back to Fort William. That way I had some time for some beers at the Black Isle Bar, and a Venison Salami pizza, but even more important: retrieving my bag! 

Then there was just one more train to take: the West Highland Line to Glasgow Queen Street. 

After two very short nights, I couldn’t wait to check-in my hotel—Premier Inn Glasgow City Centre St Enoch Square—have a shower, and go to bed… Because tomorrow will start way too early for a Sunday!