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C-C-C-Copenhagen 

The last full day of my trip! And it has everything: croissants, a castle, a Copenhagen museum, a craft brewery, coffee, crunchy onions, and crisp beers…

Since there didn’t seem to be any nice breakfast places nearby, the prospect of enjoying a croissant while seeing the city from the tenth floor, and a rather strict schedule in the morning, I had my breakfast in my WakeUp Copenhagen hotel. 

The strict schedule was enforced upon me by my Rosenborg Slot ticket: whereas all other tickets I bought in advance just specified the day, for this one I had to pick a specific ten minute slot, and risk being refused entry if missed… It was worth the hassle though, because the castle was a lot more connected to Danish royalty than I realised, and some of the items on display are still occasionally being used by them! 

The time-sensitive part over, I could relax with coffee at La Cabra, and a standing lunch with a spicy grillmedister hot dog from an Den Økologiske Pølsemand stall. 

I then headed to Københavns Museum, a museum I somehow only noticed the day before, but was definitely worth a visit. 

Back in the centre, I checked out the Torvehallerne. I already knew the Mikkeller & Friends Bottle Shop would be there, but I also seized the opportunity to have frikadelle smørrebrød at Hallernes Smørrebrød

My brewery of the day was BRUS, where To Øl CPH has a small brewkit, and a lot of nice beers brewed right there, or wherever To Øl brews in bigger batches. 

Too Old To Die Young was just a five minute walk from there. While it still exists as a brand, the bar didn’t really have a connection to any brewery, or at least not anymore.

Then it was time to solve the mystery of the Koelschip, or is it the Mikkeller & Friends bar? Well, it’s still not any clearer, but I received a stamp for each in my Mikkeller Passport, and was able to claim my first free beer here. 

A quick coffee and a sweet snack at Coffee Collective, but across the street I noticed a craft beer bar I had not heard of yet: Haven. Well, I had to pop in there as well, of course!

My last beer stop in Copenhagen was Peders, another atmospheric basement bar. Since the next day would start way too early, I then called it a night. 

Danmark!

A new day, a new country! Well, actually Danmark is the only one of the Scandinavian countries I had actually been before, although I didn’t see much of it, and I definitely didn’t try the beer bars…

But before I even got there, I still had a couple of hours to go on the MS Nordic Crown. Since the sun rises quite early that far north, so did I, and before eight, I was already enjoying the very extensive breakfast buffet in the Kull restaurant. 

Since I had already packed my bag, I had plenty of time to observe the arrival process. 

Finally on land again, I hopped on the train to get to my hotel. To my delight, Wakeup Copenhagen already had a room ready for me, saving me quite a lot of time. 

Just down the street was one of many Original Coffee outlets, which satisfied my coffee needs for the morning. 

Then it was just another short walk to the National Museum of Denmark. There I learned that Danmark was quite a bit more imperialistic than I realised. 

After a coffee and a rye bread smørrebrød with chicken at Sonny, I headed all the way to Mikkeller Baghaven, which was not even on my original itinerary, because it was quite far…

A bus and a metro then brought me back to another hip part of town, for a coffee at Prolog Coffee Bar

Just around the corner was Fermentoren, an awesome beer bar I would love to have in my neighbourhood. 

But I really had to go to Warpigs Brewpub for at least some of their locally brewed beers, and some of their Piggy Poppers.  

For a proper dinner I went to Chicky Grill, where I had Flæskesteg (roast pork). 

After that I was up for a few more beers: one at Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade—they didn’t have more than one that appealed to me on the menu anyway—and a few more at the half-in-Tivoli-embedded Anarkist Bar. 

One more…

A last half day in Oslo, before setting sail to Copenhagen… That’s just enough time for one more museum, one more coffee, one more Norwegian lunch, and one more Norwegian beer bar! 

Like any day, it started with breakfast. This time I went to Rent Mel, so well integrated in the hotel, it not only gave a discount, but it even had an entrance from within the lobby! 

The museum of the day was the Historisk Museum. While the Viking museum is closed for renovations until 2027, some of the artefacts found a home here, for a while. 

For lunch I made it into the Mathallen today, since apparently they are closed on Mondays. First, coffee at Solberg & Hansen. Then, the Tipsy Moose Burger at Helt Vilt. To finish, a last Norwegian beer at Hopyard, which according to UntappdHere Come the Vikings!—was exactly the 150th Norwegian beer I ever had. 

Then it was time to check out of my hotel, an into my Go Nordic ship for the night, the MS Nordic Crown. I was welcomed in my Commodore Class cabin with some bubbly, and after the ship set sail, I headed to the aft deck bar for some Svaneke beers, and to enjoy the views of Oslo disappearing in the distance…

Soon it was time for my pre-booked dinner in restaurant Kull. On a table near the window, I enjoyed my Duroc spare ribs with Nordic BBQ sauce and chips, and my selection of Nordic cheeses. 

After dinner I had one beer in the Anker pub where there was a musician playing, but the main show was outside: a sunset at sea…

An Oslo Odyssey

Time for some history and some more culinary discoveries today! And for the last time this trip, a run… 

There is no breakfast served in the hotel, but in same building there are a couple of options available. My first morning in Oslo proper, I went to Spor av Nord, for an egg salad sandwich and a kardemommebolle

Then I was off to the Norsk Folkemuseum. Like Bokrijk in Belgium, it’s an open-air museum, filled with buildings from all over the country, taken apart at their original location, and carefully put together again, thus saving them for posterity. 

Back in the centre, it was time to try some of that famous brown cheese—brunost—and apparently it is quite good on a waffle. So I went to Haralds Vaffel, and asked for the ‘superclassic vaffel’. Not bad at all! 

Tim Wendelboe is a well-known name in the coffee world, so obviously I had to have a coffee there!

And since just the waffle was a bit light for lunch, I also stopped at Syverkiosken for a pølse med lompe, a hotdog in a potato flatbread.

Before my last run, I still had time to try two more bars: Brygg Oslo and Café Fiasco

But then I really had to get changed and catch a tram to the run start. Since it was Oslo H3’s run , it took inspiration from the Kubrick film, and was titled “A Hash Odyssey!” We were very lucky with the weather, and had some great views over the water. 

Running & Reindeer

The last day of InterScandi—including a short run—but the first day of properly exploring Oslo! Well, I mostly discovered the bars, since it was a bit late for museums already…

But first the coaches took us and our luggage a bit closer to Oslo centre. We got off the coaches to start our Hangover Run, the luggage was then further transported to Pakkhuset Oslo, where our run finished. A final Circle and a sandwich, and that concluded InterScandi 2028

My CityBox Oslo hotel was only a couple of hundred metres away, so I quickly checked in, and had a shower and a change. 

A quick coffee or two at Hakone Coffee, and I was off to the Amundsen Bryggeri & Spiseri. Lovely people behind the bar, and some really nice beers, brewed in the tiny brewery just behind the glass. 

Next: Dr. Jekyll’s Pub—with a hidden toilets entrance—and RØØR.

Time for some Norwegian cuisine, and Elias Mat & Sånt had exactly what I was looking for: finnbiff! This reindeer stew with bacon, mushroom, onion and carrot, double cream and brown cheese sauce, was served with mashed potatoes and lingonberries, and it was delicious. 

Sufficiently fed, I was ready for some more beer, trying to keep my selection as local as possible. Luckily Mad Goat Tap Room and Brewgata both had plenty of choice.